AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |
Back to Blog
![]() ![]() I touched the speaker wires to the corresponding solder points on the bottom of the board to make sure that the block itself wasn't the problem.Situation: I met a woman from Indonesia in March 2023 through a letter writing app. I hate to fill up land fills if I can repair something like this. There are dozens of resistors and i don't have the expertise to trouble shoot the problem. I can get both speakers to work off of a common but there is not left side. Unfortunately I know the anatomy of the speaker because one side stopped working. Great sound for Computer speakers, great mid range and enough bass to even enjoy game play. Mine have been in constant operation since I purchased in 1997. The retaining clips on the soldered in Heat Sinks will probably come off because they are just light attached with some adhesive. The assembly lifts out and the screws securing the aluminum Heat sink come out. That block is also soldered to the board. The black satrelite speaker connector block also has 2 screws that need to be removed. The bass knob pulls off and the retaining nut is almost finger tight. In answer to your question about how they disassemble: Or if the amp has components that got damaged. ![]() I'm also unable to figure out if the amp has a separate fuse that needs fixing or replacement. Source (laptop then an Ipod) -> mini to mini stereo cable -> E3 Fiio headphone amp ->input1 jack of the subwoofer+amp -> left + right satellite speakersīTW, I still haven't figured out how to safely open up the subwoofer unit so I can get pics of the amp circuitry. ![]() I might test again later using the following hookup: Not sure if using a straight mini to mini stereo cable is causing the problem, or if my amp circuitry got damage when my T800mA glass fuse got busted. The cable I'm missing is a mini to mini stereo cable with volume control (. The mini to mini stereo cable is suppose to be a multimedia audio cable w/ volume control which I misplaced, so I had to make do w/ a straight stereo cable. One a generic cable I bought from an electronics shop and the other came with an portable E3 Fiio Headphone Amp. I also used two different mini to mini stereo audio cable. The source I used in the test was a laptop headphone out and an Ipod Photo. The amp module is in the subwoofer unit where the signal out to the left + right speakers are located as well. Source -> mini to mini stereo cable ->input1 of the subwoofer with amp -> left + right satellite speakers I'll try to snap some pics and find a hosting site so I can post it here. I tried to take a look inside to check if there were other components that need fixing, but I found it quite difficult to disassemble the unit. I'd also like to ask if anyone has a service manual or guide for the Cambridge Soundworks Microworks (Model 1 circa 1997). The sound is similar to when you plug in a might or line-out into a live port, only in my case it was constantly crackling, which you can hear with whatever it was you were playing. I didn't want to spend for the T800ma which I have to order on ebay from the US or Europe, and have it shipped to Asia yet, since I'm still not sure if its just the fuse that is causing the problem, specially since the speakers were making crackling sounds on one channel before the unit failed. Would it be safe to just use an alternative like the T750ma? It's a bit expensive to order online and have t800ma shipped. My problem is, here in my place, I can only find T500ma, T750ma and T1000ma glass fuses. It says in label inside the unit to use a T800ma 250V glass fuse to replace the unit (its a 110-120V AC powered unit). When I opened it up, I saw that the fuse has blown. Initially it was making some crackling sounds like the circuit was grounded until it wouldn't power on. I have an old set of Cambridge Soundworks Microworks which stopped working. I'm new here, and stumbled upon this forum while doing a bit of research on how to get my spearkers working again. ![]()
0 Comments
Read More
Leave a Reply. |